To Prewash or Not to Prewash your Fabric in Garment Sewing-that is the question!

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Unwashed fabric can shrink and distort after washing

There are a lot of schools of thought on this topic and some controversy. Some people swear it is not necessary and some people always do it.

Which camp do I belong in?

I for one, am a rule follower and I do prewash the fabric I am going to use for sewing garments (not for quilts as I like them to be stiff when I cut and I also like how they shrink up and look crinkly after the quilt is washed)

I am going to explain why prewashing fabric is a necessary step for anyone sewing garments.

1. Stabilize the Fabric:

Prewashing fabric helps stabilize the material before sewing. Fabrics are often subjected to various processes during their production, such as dyeing, printing, and finishing. These processes can cause the fabric to shrink or warp, which can lead to misaligned seams, puckering, or distortion.

By prewashing your fabric, you remove excess dyes, finishes, and chemicals, allowing the fibers to relax and stabilize. I will often wash a stiff fabric and find that it becomes much softer and pliable after prewashing. By washing the fabric first you can see what it will really be like before you cut out a garment. Prewashing also minimizes misshapen garments after sewing.

2. Prevent Shrinkage:

Serged fabric-serging before prewashing prevents raveling

Failure to prewash fabric can result in unexpected shrinkage once the finished garment is laundered. Different types of fabric, such as cotton, linen, and rayon, have varying shrinkage rates. Skipping the prewash step can lead to a garment that shrinks too much after it’s first wash making all your hard work worthless. I never want to take this risk because let’s face it: Making clothes takes time. If I am going to take the time to sew something to wear, I am going to take the time to prewash it

3. Prepare for Care Instructions:

Washing fabrics is an essential part of garment care, and prewashing helps you determine the fabric's specific care requirements. Different types of fabric have varied washing and drying tolerances. By prewashing, you become aware of how your fabric will respond to different laundering methods, enabling you to establish appropriate care instructions for your finished garment. If you buy a fabric that says dry clean only, many people recommend dry cleaning the fabric. I have never done this. I always just make sure I only dry clean the finished garment. If the fabric says Hand Wash only, it is better to hand wash the fabric before cutting. The rule of thumb is to clean it first as you will after you wear it. I generally use my best judgement on this. But honestly, I always wash cottons, linens, and washable fabrics before cutting into garments because I don’t want them to shrink.

4. Testing Fabric Quality:

Prewashing is an opportunity to test the fabric for any potential quality issues or flaws. This step can help identify problems like color bleeding or fabric bleeding, uneven shrinkage, or fabric weakness. It is good to know if a fabric is going to bleed, fade or hold up to washing before you sew it up, so washing it first is always a good test to see if the fabric is a good candidate for your garment. If it does bleed you can eliminate this fabric from quilts or use a product like this: Color Catchers

Zig Zag the edges of your fabric if you do not have a serger before washing to prevent raveling in the washing machine and dryer

5. Consistent Fit and Design:

Prewashing fabric ensures that your finished garment retains its original shape and size over time. Cutting and sewing unwashed fabric can result in the final garment shrinking or distorting after laundering, leading to an ill-fitting or misshapen piece.

By prewashing, you can guarantee that the fabric's original dimensions are consistent throughout the sewing process, allowing you to achieve the desired fit and design as intended. No weird pulling, distortion and no shrinking. And after all the work we put into sewing our clothes and handmade quilts, who has time for that?

Happy Prewashing and Sewing,

Andi

Commercial Sewing Patterns vs PDF Sewing Patterns: Which is Right for You?

If you are passionate about sewing, you may have already experienced the excitement of creating unique garments that match your personal style. Whether you are a newbie or an experienced seamstress, choosing between commercial sewing patterns and PDF sewing patterns can be a tough decision. In this article, we will explore the differences between these two popular options, helping you make an informed choice that suits your needs.

Commercial Sewing Patterns: Classic and Convenient

Commercial sewing patterns have been around for decades and are widely available in fabric stores and online. These patterns are typically printed on tissue paper, featuring multiple garment options and a range of sizes. Here are a few advantages of using commercial sewing patterns:

Ease of Use: Commercial patterns come with detailed instructions, clear illustrations, and size charts, making them user-friendly for beginners. The step-by-step guidance helps streamline the sewing process, from cutting the fabric to the final stitch.

Range of Options: Commercial patterns offer a wide selection of designs, from formal dresses to casual tops, and everything in between. They also include various size options, allowing you to create garments for different body types.

Consistency: Sewing patterns from established brands have been thoroughly tested and perfected, ensuring consistent and reliable results. This reliability is especially important when creating complex garments, like jackets or tailored trousers.

Fitting Adjustments: Commercial patterns often include multiple size lines and detailed instructions for making fitting adjustments. This gives you the opportunity to create a custom fit tailored to your body shape. However, sizing is not like sizing in the clothing store. If you wear a size 4 at the clothing store, chances are a commercial pattern size 4 is not going to fit. You have to measure your body carefully and be willing to ignore the size numbers. (This is harder said than done because no one wants to sew a bigger size than they are used to wearing but it isn’t really bigger. Clothing in the store uses vanity sizing so that size 4 you are wearing is not really a standardized 4. It is just that company’s version of a size 4. They make the sizes seem smaller so you will buy them. Pattern sizes are going to be larger. They are not vanity sized in commercial patterns.

However, commercial sewing patterns do come with a few drawbacks:

Cost: High-quality commercial patterns can be quite expensive, especially for premium brands or complex designs. If you plan to sew frequently or experiment with different styles, the cost can quickly add up. However, if you live near a Joann’s Fabric store, you are in luck as they run pattern sales fairly regularly. Stock up on your favorite styles when they go on sale for 1.99 a piece (Many of the brands will be offered at this low price though some will only be half price. Check website and sign up for their newsletter flyer for sales information.)

Storage: Commercial patterns, being printed on tissue paper, can take up a significant amount of storage space. This can be a challenge if you have a small sewing area or limited storage options. (I actually iron mine to get them back in the package…. I really do!)

Availability: While commercial patterns are widely accessible, you may encounter difficulties finding a specific design or size at your local fabric store. Limited availability can sometimes limit your creativity and force you to compromise on your desired project.

Difficult to Understand: Commercial patterns take some practice. They use a lot of industry standardized instructions and diagrams, so you have to learn how to read them. There are videos and instruction on how to do this but it takes some patience and practice. Once you learn though, these patterns are generally reliable and well tested.

PDF Sewing Patterns: Modern and Versatile

PDF sewing patterns have gained popularity in recent years due to their convenience and affordability. These patterns are available for download from various websites and are printed on regular printer paper. Here are some advantages of using PDF sewing patterns:

Instant Access: PDF patterns can be purchased and downloaded immediately after payment, avoiding the wait time associated with physical patterns. This digital accessibility makes them an excellent option for last-minute sewing projects or when you need a pattern quickly.

Affordability: PDF patterns tend to be cheaper than their commercial counterparts, and many sites offer discounts or sales on specific designs or bundles. This affordability allows you to explore different styles and patterns without breaking the bank. But this is only if you are not getting your patterns on sale at Joann’s. Most PDF patterns are not 1.99 so do not be fooled into thinking you are going to get a deal on PDF patterns all the time. It depends on how you buy your patterns and what brand you are purchasing.

You are Supporting an Independent Designer: Many PDF patterns are made by independent designers and sewists, so by purchasing one of their patterns you are supporting a local artisan and getting something that is a little unique and bespoke. Just remember these are not usually standardized or rigorously tested like commercial patterns are (though they are often tested by a team of sewists).

Customization: PDF patterns often come with additional features that allow you to customize the design to suit your preferences. These features can include different garment lengths, neckline options, or optional extras, making it easier to create a unique piece. Commercial patterns also offer customization in different view types and hacking options. It just depends on what patten you choose. Many have options for you to further add your own style to a garment.

While PDF sewing patterns offer several advantages, there are a few considerations to keep in mind:

Printing and Assembling: PDF patterns must be printed and assembled at home before use. This process requires access to a printer and the patience to align and tape together several pages. It's important to ensure that your printer settings are correct to maintain accurate sizing. Also some patterns can print one size at a time which is a great time saver but not all PDFs are created equal so check to see if it is formatted so that you can print just the size you need or if you have to print them all and then cut out the size you need. This adds to the work and is something to consider.

Storage Issues: PDF patterns are stored digitally on your computer or device which means you always have access to them. However, this doesn’t account for the fact that you have to print them out and tape them together each time you need them. I prefer to save the one I have cut and taped to use the next time but these patterns are huge and bulky. So, saving them in this form is much more difficult than a tissue paper pattern. And do not get me started on the instructions. Instructions for commercial patterns come on neatly folded papers-usually no more than 3 front and back. The instructions for PDF patterns can be 10-20 pages long printed out. So, you have to find a way to store those. This can take up a lot of space. I either use manila envelopes or file folders depending on what style they are. Small projects have less pieces so I put them in file folders. Garments usually fit better in manila envelopes which are much bulkier than commercial pattern envelopes.

Instructions and Support: Although most PDF patterns come with instructions, they may not be as detailed as those found in commercial patterns. However, many pattern designers offer online tutorials or sewing communities where you can seek support if you encounter any difficulties. Another plus for these patterns is that they often have photographs instead of the tricky little diagrams making them much easier to follow.

Sizing Consistency: As the sizing and fit of PDF patterns can vary between designers, it is important to carefully read size charts and take accurate measurements before selecting a size. It may be necessary to make fitting adjustments to achieve the desired fit.

Ultimately, the decision between commercial sewing patterns and PDF sewing patterns depends on your personal preferences, budget, and sewing goals. Consider the advantages, drawbacks, and your own sewing experience when making a choice. You can even blend the two options - using commercial patterns for intricate or tailored projects, while relying on PDF patterns for quick, trendy designs.  Personally, I like to use both now. I grew up sewing in the age of commercial patterns so trying PDF patterns seemed a little scary, but I do like that I can get them quickly, learn new techniques and support new designers and sew up something trendy with these types of patterns. I toggle between the two types to suit my needs. The key is to enjoy the process and let your creativity shine through your unique sewing creations.

Happy Sewing,

Andi

Three Simple Sewing Projects for Beginners

Do you want to learn how to sew but are not sure what projects are beginner friendly? Or are you teaching someone how to sew? I teach a lot of children aged 7 and up and adults how to sew in my studio, and I have amassed a good collection of tutorials and patterns for some super successful beginning projects. These can be used for old and young people learning to sew. So, whether you are an adult wanting to learn to sew, or trying to teach your child or grandchild, one of these projects is sure to fit the bill.

Book Marks: These useful items are easy to sew, and this is a quick enough project that you can make several of these at once to give as little gifts. It is a great project to get started in a sewing practice and gives almost instant gratification. You can also customize the fabric to the recipient to really personalize these or just use scraps. Either way this is a project you will come back to again and again.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTPlhlV1Ixk

Fat Quarter Projects: Using fat quarters, you can create all kinds of simple and fun projects. Fat quarters are pre-cut pieces of fabric that are commonly used in quilting and craft projects. Try this Love Bug project that makes a perfect birthday gift for a little one. This is also perfect for teaching children how to sew as well. Started as a Partnership with Moda Fabrics and Creativity Shell, this little project is a no fail way to introduce young sewers to sewing. Even adults will have fun making this for a child or grandchild in their life.

https://www.shabbyfabrics.com/p113778/love-bug-pattern

Pillowcases: I love using this tutorial for making pillowcases as gifts. I have assisted many students in successfully making this style of pillowcase. And who doesn’t need new colorful pillowcases? You can even get them monogrammed as an extra special gift for someone on your list.

https://www.seasonedhomemaker.com/pillowcase-tutorial-burrito-style/

Remember to start with simple projects that match your skill level and gradually challenge yourself with more complex ones as you gain experience and confidence. These three projects will get you started in sewing basic items that you can keep for yourself or give to others. I find that the most successful beginning projects are those that can be completed quickly and easily so that you will gain confidence as you learn and become ready to tackle more detailed projects. Stay tuned for more sewing project ideas.

Happy Sewing,

Andi